"The elves are dressed in leather
And the angels are in chains
The sugar plums are rancid
And the stockings are in flames!"
- from "Christmas with the Devil" by Spinal Tap
Amidst the elite wine world personalities, there are a handful of famous names that hate the modern style of California wines. Actually, "hate" is a strong word. But hate them they do. They consider these wines almost evil, as if they were the tool (or at least the preferred quaffs) of Satan himself.
As for me, I am not among them (neither an elite famous wine personality, nor a hater of big, bold CA wines).
God knows that I've got no issue with a wine "fruit bomb," provided that big, bold, and powerfully alcoholic is the best expression of that winery's fruit. What I don't like is when wines are busty for the sake of the almighty dollar (as in, forgoing an expression of terroir and / or style to instead chase after the palates of a few wine critics, whose increased scores can mean a price point increase of 30% or more per bottle on the wine market). Homogenization is a perversion of this style of wine marketing. But it's not the fault of this style of winemaking in and of itself.
So, for the 2008 Christmas dinner at Chateau Dude, I decided to raid the sample shipping boxes for the biggest, boldest CA wines to pair with grilled lobster tail, bison steak, and various cuts of Angus beef (all expertly prepared by my brother-in-law).
The lineup?
Franciscan's 2006 Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay (Carneros, about $40), and a 2005 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Reserve (where else... Napa, about $140).
The story behind The Franciscan (does anyone else think that name sounds like a potential Monty Python skit?): 15 months sur lie in 100% new oak, fermented with wild yeasts using 15-20% of the barrel wines, 14.5% abv; various 90+ point ratings ensued.
The Mondavi? 18 months in 100% new French oak, hand harvested & sorted, a tiny amount (5%) of Cabernet Franc thrown in, 15% abv; 90+ point reviews ensued.
You get the picture. Christmas with The Devil, I thought.
The Franciscan (I just love how that sounds) was the more unabashedly Californian. It doesn't get much bigger than this, it's a wine that struts it's stuff. There is so much vanilla and oak, I actually picked up a hint of cream soda-pop among the citrus, apple, and even banana (banana cream pie, anyone?). What rescues this potent beast from potenital oak hell is the acidity - for CA, the acidity is downright racy. Yes, it pairs amazingly well with grilled lobster. I'm not sure what else it would pair well with, and I enjoyed it, but I'm not gonna go so far as to call it a "triumph of viticulture and winemaking."
As expected, the Mondavi was a killer match with steak. I decanted this puppy for nearly four hours before serving it. At first, coming out of the decanter, it was all black cherry compote - and I mean, spread-it-over-toast first-thing-in-the-morning compote. With time in the glass, things got decidely more complex: figs, plum, red currant, hints of cedar, a little olive. The finish carried quality fruit and spice and was more than respectibly long. I really felt as though it needed abotu six years in the bottle to really integrate, and I didn't find the high abv too overpowering.
These are both very good wines. Whether or not they're worth the price is a discussion I leave up to you (more on my take on paying for the cache factor of CA wines can be found in my recent articles about Opus One).
The problem is not that wines like these are being made. The problem is that too many wines like these that shouldn't be made are being made.
If there's something to hate here, it's not the original CA blockbusters - it's the greedy drive of copycat wineries the world over chasing after a buck, forgoing the individuality of their vineyard sites and the best quality of their fruit. We can and should challenge those wineries to do better; if we end up with the ubiquity of the 'Bic Mac' of wines, then I have truly seen The Devil, and The Devil is us!
Anyway, let's fire up that grill, shall we?
Cheers!
(images: spinaltapfan.com, 1WineDude.com)
"Christmas With The Devil" Or "Why I Still Don't Hate California Wine"
Prime Time: Another New Kid on the 'Napa Cab' Block
Remember our not-so-old friends, Volta? Seems there are a few other winemakers out there who do, too.
Take Ted Henry of the newly-minted wine producers Prime Cellars in Napa.
"I was in Volta's Winemaker Massimo's class at UC Davis," Ted told me. "We used to drink beers together in his Silver Oak days..."
As it turns out, Volta isn't the only tiny Napa winery that kicked off an innagural, premium Cabernet release in the 2005 vintage. The promising 2005 red wine harvest in Napa also saw the birth of Prime Cellars (who recently contacted me to send me a sample after reading Volta's first-ever review here at 1WineDude.com), founded by UC Davis alumni and marching band-mates Ted & Lisa Henry, and Curtis Mann (handling winemaking, marketing, and sales chores, respectively).
Unlike Volta, Prime is going for a less high-octane Cab. (their 2005 release clocks in at 13.6% abv, which is about a full percent lower than Volta's Cab)...
The back-label on their first release, dubbed "District 4" Cabernet, does the best job of summing up the story of their endeavor so far: "Hand picked... Small Lot... French Oak... Empty bank account."
Let's check out the wine...
2005 Prime Cellars "District 4" Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)
Sourced from Grasso Vineyard in Napa's east hills (Coombsville), which is a relatively cool growing area that can still achieve ripeness for traditional Bordeaux varietals like Cab Sauv.
The vitals: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (Clone 7 on 1103P rootstock), 3 day cold soak, 23 days on the skins, 22 months spent in New French, used French, and new Hungarian oak (1/3 in each).
My thoughts: Even though this wine is lower in alcohol (13.6%) than the typical bordering-on-port style of CA Cab popular today, the first thing that hits you about this wine is that it smells (and looks) powerful.
The nose is dominated by black plum, with a hint of dried black fruits and elegant spice (rather than hefty oak). After several minutes in the glass, pepper and dried herbs start to creep out, and once in a while you sniff some wet dirt (but in a good way).
Take a sip, and and the fruits get a little more red (cherries and currants), but still "feel" dried. The tannins are smooth but almost coffee-thick, and the coffee notees stick around on a finish that is almost half a minute long.
Like it's prime number namesake, Prime's District 4 achieves an excellent balance, with almost nothing in divisive proportion; its fruit, tannic & acidic structure, alcohol, and spice seem measured out in harmonious doses with almost recipe-like precision. While in balance, these elements haven't blended harmoniously together yet - it needs time, either by an hour or two in a decanter, or prefreably 4 years (in a bottle, of course).
This first Prime Cellars release is only 147 cases - so you'll probably want to visit their website if you want to get your hands on it; chances are it won't show up at your local wine shop yet.
Although I undermine my perception of ay sort of wine expertise when I say things like this, I need to tell you that I'm stumped as to wether or not the `05 District 4 will ever capitalize on its integration potential.
But I suppose I'd put more money on that than one me being able to hold out 4 years before drinking another bottle.
Cheers!
(images: 1WineDude.com, PrimeCellars.com)
Blind Tasting Smackdown: East Coast Vs. West Coast!
Actually, it's not so much a smackdown as, it turns out, a comparison of apples and oranges. Or, a comparison of Old World style vs. New World style.
After visiting both Opus One and Penns Woods Winery, located on the Left and Right Coasts, respectively, I thought it would be interesting to host a blind tasting between the 2005 vintages of both winery's Bordeaux-style red blends.
What would a clash of the titans like this prove?
Not much, it turns out, but it was an enlightening experience, and one that you will want to read if you appreciate differing styles of fine wines, and are interested in a bit of a litmus test on how far wines from both coasts of America have come...
Or, if you want to read the extremely geeky musings of two wine dorks.
Your call...
Anyway, for this blind tasting, I was reunited with my 2WineDudes partner in crime, Jason Whiteside, who was in town taking a few of his exams for the WSET Diploma in Wine & Spirits. The wines (hereby referred to as Wine 1 and Wine 2, until such time as their true identity is revealed) were decanted a few hours before our tasting, and neither Jason nor I knew which wine was poured into which decanter. Both wines were then poured into separate (but identical) Riedel wine glasses.
Following is the uber-geeky tasting play-by-play:
The Visuals
The Nose
The Palate
The Verdict
There you have it. East Coast meets West Coast turns out to be more like Old World Italy meets New World California. Who'da thunk it?
Cheers!
(images: 1WineDude.com)
"A Sense of Urgency": The Reinvention of Opus One from the Ground Up
"Every living thing at Opus One, whether it be person or grape vine, needs to have a sense of urgency."
It was yet another gorgeous, sun-filled day in Oakville, the fog having completely burned off, the sunshine making quick work of the remnants of the previous evening's chill still present in the air. I was trying very hard not to hate everyone who lived in the area. I'd also not had adequate time to absorb enough caffeine to put myself in an appropriate (aka "sane") state of mind - my appointment with Opus One began at 9:30 AM. That's, like, what, three hours before I should be awake when in CA after a night of "extreme" wine tasting ?
Michael Silacci, Opus One's winemaker since 2004, was addressing a small group standing in the vineyard lots adjacent to the famed winery building that, from highway 29 either looks like a temple to modern viniculture, or an invading spacecraft (depending on your point of view of Opus' wines). Dressed in jeans and a fleece, he was obviously feeling at home in the vineyard. I think he'd probably had more coffee than me.
I was on a 'technical tour' of Opus, with a group that included winemakers and interns from local wineries (Harlan, and Tandem), representatives from winemaking properties in Argetina, France's Medoc, and Australia, and little old me (at the invitation of Roger Asleson, Opus' Director of PR). Roger had previously extended an invitation to tour the winery, and "drill down to another level of detail to show what we’ve been working on in the vineyards and in the cellar for the last several years."...
Full disclosure: I've long been a fan of Opus' wines. But even for hard-core fans there is no escaping the criticism that Opus has, at times, under-delivered for their price-point. In my experience, this negative perception is driven primarily by two factors:
1) Disappointingly inconsistent `98, `99, and 2000 offerings, produced during a time when their previous winemaker "wasn't as present" (according to some of the Opus staff) - while those same wines remained expensive enough to be out of reach for many wine consumers.
2) Opus' uncanny ability to receive rating scores in the low 90s from the establisheed wine magazines, prompting consumers to wonder why they should pay twice the amount for Opus than for higher-scoring, neighboring Napa wines....even for hard-core fans there is no escaping the criticism that Opus has, at times, under-delivered for their price-point...
Standing outside of the winery, my thoughts moving slowly from coffee to the possibility of a wine tasting, someone in our group asked Michael about the appropriate level of winemaker involvement in the vineyard. Michael squinted in the early afternoon sun, holding his hands above his eyes to block the growing potency of the incoming rays. "The best thing that you can put in a vineyard is your own two feet," he answered. "We spend a lot of time in the vineyard. We have people here who do both viticulture and viniculture."
Maybe things were a little different around here.
Another difference at Opus that would have been blatantly obvious to even the casual observer: some of the vineyard plots were completely empty; others were nursing young, small, and fragile new vines. According to Roger, Opus is embarking on a 25 year program to "replant nearly the entire vineyard."
If Opus is trying to reinvent itself, it's doing it literally from the ground up.
After finding himself with a glut of interns, Michael put them to good use, evaluating and scoring 266,000 vines in all four parcels of Opus' estate vineyards, and creating a digital map of vine health. The results spurred the redevelopment program, the data and helped to gain the buy-in of the program from the shareholders. The vine pruning is now all Guyot, and kept fairly low to the ground, to better control vigor and discourage carbohydrate storage. "The vines are becoming more resilient, and I've noticed a difference in the texture already," said Michael.
"Every living thing at Opus One, whether it be person or grape vine, needs to have a sense of urgency."
More vineyard changes are afoot, but less obvious than the above ground replantings. Vine nursery quality control systems have been put in place, as has a redesigned water management system better suited to the gravelly veins that span out under Opus' vineyard soil towards the Napa river. In the brightening sun illuminating the young vines, Michael explained that the new system "encourages the roots to grow as quickly as they can and as deeply as they can."
A 25-year redesign commitment during an economic downturn? Isn't the stock market squarely in the toilet? Most CA wineries that I've talked to that have seen their fine wine sales drop upwards of 25 percent.
"We're not seeing a softening," Roger told me earlier that morning. "We still can't get Opus One to everyone that wants it. People are still 'lining up' for our wines, but the line is maybe half a block long, instead of being three blocks long."
Turns out this is due to yet another change at Opus, one that helps them get their wines to where the money is: over 30% of their sales are overseas, via négociants in Bordeaux who in turn sell Opus on the international markets. Using négociants avoids cannibalism between Opus' markets, and affords them more agility than most large wineries in distributing their wine to areas of stronger sales, better weathering the current stockmarket slide.
It was early, and I was low on coffee, but certainly thinking clearly enough to wonder: if your shareholders have approved a 25 year replanting program, and you're not hurting for cash, then what's with the sense of urgency?
"We went from relying on the team from Mondavi, and using their equipment, to having nothing - and having to put a team together quickly," said Michael. A bit of background: since the sale of Mondavi's wine holdings to Constellation Wine Brands in 2004, Opus One has had to do things differently. Things like buy new equipment, and make totally autonomous decisions in vineyard management, sales & marketing, and administration. It now seems Michael's personal mission is to keep momentum behind those changes, and reward individually accountability in the vineyard and the winery, without losing site of the vision established for Opus One by its founders.
Opus One's origin story is a tale now well-familiar to most California wine lovers. In 1978, the late Napa pioneer Robert Mondavi teamed up with the late Bordeaux iconoclast Baron Phillipe Rothschild (of Mouton-Rothschild, the only 1855 classified growth ever to get promoted to Premier status), to create a joint venture a stone's throw from Mondavi's winery in Oakville. The two men sealed the deal via a handshake in the Baron's office, which also happened to be the Baron's bedroom, where he did "90 percent of my business" (my kind of Baron!).
Their idea, Opus One, aimed to use New World fruit (and technology), balanced with Old World Bordeaux winemaking, to produce (according to Mondavi) a wine of "bottled poetry," made by "a vibrant business instiution designed to last a hundred years and more. We had only one criterion: The Best." Whether or not Opus One has lived up to that original aim is a matter of "love-to-hate-it" conjecture: a topic that well-off wine consumers love to debate ad nauseum, and pundits love to dismiss outright (even if they've never actually tasted the wine).
Fast-forward to 2004: Michael has been named winemaker, Opus One (along with the rest of the Mondavi wine empire) is part of Constellation Wine Brands, and Michael is sitting on jury duty, day-dreaming about how to raise engagement at the recently sold Oakville icon. It's long been known in the corporate world that higher engagement leads to higher quality products and better business results. And higher engagement starts with getting employees psyched about their day-to-day work. During his jury-duty day-dreaming, Michael decided to challenge the Opus One employees - all of them - in an interesting way: In an effort to encourage independent decision making and "cross pollination" of roles within Opus, small teams would be formed across all functions (including cellar & vineyard management, PR and accounting). Each team would be responsible for a small amount of wine - all aspects of that wine - from vine to glass. Decisions on every aspect of the vine and wine would be made by the teams themselves, not by Michael. Even though each team had only a small amount of vines under its remit, their total would potentially equate to a few hundred thousand dollars worth of wine at retail....Whether or not Opus One has lived up to Mondavi's original aim to be "The Best" is a matter of "love-to-hate-it" conjecture: a topic that well-off wine consumers love to debate, and pundits love to dismiss (even if they've never actually tasted the wine)...
How did the staff take it? "They're scared to death!" Roger told me. They've got a decent track record, though: so far, their lots have made it into the final blend of either Opus One or the estate's second wine, Overture.
"The more you challenge people, the greater they rise to the occasion," Michael told us while standing in the midst of Opus' large, engraved (and nearly spotless) tanks on the winery's ground floor. "What's the 'pectin' [in winemaking]? It's humans. People hold it all together." Renewed by their newfound sense of ownership, the staff's input has started to change other aspects of Opus' winemaking. "We went from racking based on a calendar to racking based on how the wine is developing" explained Michael.
Our group strolled along the outer edge the winery, where Michael showed us some of the new (and also engraved) harvesting equipment that Opus One had to procure when Mondavi was sold. About 60 percent of harvesting is now done at the ungodly hour of 3AM PT. Why would Michael torture Opus' vineyard workers in this way? "In the evening, the vine rehydrates, and that extra intake of water helps to dilute the sugars," resulting in lower alcohol levels for the finished wine. "It's also better for the cellar, since they have fruit at 8AM, right when they get in." At least the bleary-eyed harvesters are given hot chocolate, lattes, and coffee during the proceedings (now a harvest-time tradition at Opus)."We want to be around in fifty years, one hundred years..."
We worked our way out of the warn Northern CA sun and down into the grand chai, Opus' Rothschild-inspired barrel room. Michael likened it's semi-circular windowed view to a nursery, and the barrel-staining process (used to hide spots left over from barrel sampling) to a bib. "Let's go in and see our babies" he said as he led us into the chai.
Changes are afoot in that quiet, reverent space as well. To minimize the potential of bready off-aromas, lees wine is no longer used to stain the barrels. Wood rails were removed to cut down on moisture retention, and other anti-microbial actions are in progress. The barrel coopers (all 14 of them - "they're a part of our team" said Michael) are brought in at regular intervals for a complicated series of barrel sample tastings that help determine the best blend for the finished wine. Why all the complexity?
"We're constantly trying to fine-tune what we do," explained Michael. Extending the nursery analogy, Opus' all-French oak barrels are single-layered before racking, to maximize attention to the "babies" during the most formative first 8-9 months of their little lives. From there, it was onto the adjacent tasting room, to see if all of the attention, changes, and raised engagement actually make a difference where it most counts - in the wine.
Earlier in the day, sans coffee but buoyed by how pleasantly everyone treated me at Opus, I asked Roger Asleson how he felt about the perception that Opus One has underperformed. "We want to be around in fifty years, one hundred years," he answered. "The key is balance" - of the wine, of Napa with Paulliac, of providing approachable, excellent wine now and experimenting for the long term goal of being "one of the best wines in the world." While the current criticism is important to Opus, in terms of a 100-year timeline, "it's a blip on the radar." No questioning the Bordeaux influence in that statement...
In the underground tasting room, Michael poured the 2005 and 2004 vintages for our group to sample. Seated at the circular "reserve" tasting table, sipping the wine, the conversation naturally became more intimate. The group members asked Michael what he thought of the big wine magazine scores for these Opus vintages (both received 90 points in Wine Spectator).
"I don't make wine for scores," he answered, "I want to respect the vineyard. I'm looking for balance. I want people to imagine it's as if they're reading poetry."
When you don't differentiate based on scores, you can do it based on price point, which has been both the boon and the bane of Opus One since it released its first vintage for $50 a bottle (a then brazen amount)."I don't make wine for scores. I want to respect the vineyard. I'm looking for balance. I want people to imagine it's as if they're reading poetry."
At 25,000 cases, poetry can sometimes be difficult to pen. Balancing early approachability with long-term aging potential adds to the trickiness. My take on the tasting: it was almost like trying two entirely different wines. And both of them were very, very good.
The 2005 was the thicker of the two, all black plum and pepper at first, with mushroom and blueberries coming a few moments later. The mouthfeel was noticeably smoother than the 2004, the finish was long with an almost BBQ like char. After a few minutes, mint leaf was jumping out of the glass. Its acidic structure made it more approachable than the 2004 as well.
The `04 was classic CA Cab: currants, black tea leaves, plum, and a bit of french bread aroama floating on top (ok, maybe that last bit isn't exactly classic CA). The tannic structure was firm, as was the acidity, suggesting a long, long life ahead. The finish was ridiculously long - I think I can still taste it - with toffee and brandy notes. A few minutes later, black licorice took over. It's like an elegant eighteen wheeler (if there is such a thing) - a wine built for the long haul.
If poetry means being able to appreciate an effort as a work of art, with unfolding levels of complexity, returning to find new and interesting elements each time you revisit it, then I'd say these wines were pretty close to being poetic. Whether or not it's $160+ worth of being poetic will, undoubtedly, still be matter of "love-to-hate-it" conjecture.
I can hear the pundits debating it already...
Leveling too much criticism on Opus One based on price and magazine scores, rather than on experiencing the wine itself, might be missing the point. "We're not photographers, we're film makers," said Michael, referring to the winery's long-term view, which seems to be shared by everyone that I ran into at Opus.
Earlier that day, while touring the winery laboratory, the noises of various analysis equipment humming away in the background, we asked Michael if the current bio-dynamic craze might come to influence Opus. Turns out they are experimenting with bio-dynamics already, but are still looking for the right balance, using one of their best vineyard lots.
Experimenting on a prized lot? Isn't that a bit risky?
Michael seems easy going about the potential dangers, and I wondered if his laid back demeanor belied a more intense passion to drive changes at Opus, or at least hid the trepidation of having to convince shareholders that this kind of risk-taking is worth it. If it made him nervous, he sure didn't show it.
"If you don't put something at risk," he said, "you're not going to take it seriously."
For now, the risks seem to be paying off, for those who can still find - and afford - a bottle of his Oakville poetry.
Cheers!
(images: 1WineDude.com)
Off the Beaten Path in Sonoma & Napa (or "KAZ & ACME Rock My Socks")
After finishing up at the first North American Wine Bloggers Conference last week in Santa Rosa, Mrs. Dudette and I took the Dude-le and hit the road for a few well-deserved appointments in Napa and Sonoma wine country.
Don't get me wrong, I loved the WBC, and had me a great time. Friendships were made. Wine was shared. Livers were... well, let's not go there. But... after three days I was looking forward to spending some family QT and hopping around wine country in the sunshine.
It's always a pleasure to visit such a beautiful area (though everything is still a bit too green out there for my tastes, and I missed the vibrant orange, yellow, and deep auburn hues of Autumn on the Right Coast), but we've been there... well... lots of times. So we needed something different to keep our relationship with Northern CA fresh.
Enter Kaz Winery and ACME Fine Wines to the rescue...
Kaz Winery (and its little brother, Bodega Bay Port Works) is the wine-making incubus of the irrepressible Richard Kasmier (a.k.a., "Kaz") in Kenwood, about 10 miles outside of Santa Rosa.
Kaz has been making wine in his small, family-owned property for a long time, and he's also the co-host of Wine Biz Radio, a somewhat-serious / somewhat-comedic and irreverent take on all things wine business related in Northern CA (it's also available online as a weekly podcast of its KSVY 91.3 radio show).
The great thing about Kaz (the winery, not the man, though Kaz is a great and entertaining fellow) is that the wines are so different from what you normally find in Sonoma: tasty, high in refreshing acidity, long on approachability, and lower on the alcohol (typically between 13 and 14% abv). This was a nice change (for me) from a weekend full of Dry Creek Wines that: were tasty, low in refreshing acidity, short on approachability, and had so much alcohol that I wondered whether or not they were trying to kill me via alcohol blood poisoning. Anyway, Kaz is a bit off the beaten path in Sonoma, but well worth the side-trip.
The following day, we met up with a friend of 1WineDude.com in St. Helena, who was kind enough to show us around town (thanks, Kimberly!) and introduce us to another irrepressible character, Erin Sullivan over at ACME Fine Wines. Erin is a trained Sommelier and clearly knows her stuff about the local wine scene.
The great thing about ACME is that they have deep cuts of the local wine scene, and specialize in the tasty wine "side projects" of talented, well-known winemakers - usually limited quantity wines that are high on tastiness, and run anywhere from $20 to $200.
I was impressed with the wines on display, all hand-selected by the ACME staff, and spent a good deal of time picking Erin's brain on some of the lesser known (to me, anyway) labels. If you're looking for something different in the world of CA wine (and for a break off the beaten path in the Napa area), ACME is well worth the visit. You can check out the selection (and place some orders) at ACMEFineWines.com.
Cheers!
(images: 1winedude.com)
Some thoughts on Californian Wine (from Across the Pond - Guest Post)
Following is a guest post from Andrew Barrow, the brains behind the venerable (and excellent) wine & food site Spittoon.biz in the U.K. While we North American wine bloggers were toiling (aka drinking) away and working hard this week at the first NA Wine Bloggers Conference in Sonoma, I asked Andrew to provide a different perspective on the California wine scene than what we typically experience (good or bad) here in NA. Check out Andrew's thoughts bellow - it's a much different, and enlightening, scene than you might be used to here in NA - and check out his excellent writing (and superb photography) at Spittoon.biz. Cheers!
As I write I’m sipping a glass of Californian red – a Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 to be precise...
It’s fairly typical of the type of Californian wine readily available in the UK. Following the 1WineDude's request for some foreign thoughts on Californian wine, the Woodbrige is ‘research’. A day or so ago, more research, with a bottle of Zinfandel – the only interesting Californian red available in the UK’s largest high street chain of off-licences.
Both wines display a certain richness, demonstrate varietal characters and are both very drinkable on their own.
"I look at many blogs – most are American – they talk of making hit wines, of boutique vineyards, limited edition bottlings and so on – names that get the writer (and their readers) excited and lustful. The same names mean nothing to me. The wine just do not make it across to the UK."
I don’t know what the sales figures are on these wines but they will certainly be eclipsed by the likes of Gallo White Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc etc. There is no escaping these critic-derided wines. They sell at basic prices by the case load. The vast majority of Gallo drinkers wouldn’t know and wouldn’t care where they come from. How ever much we deride them, they are the bedrock of California wine in the UK – both in terms of style and in sales. Drinkers of these are highly unlikely to trade up to the Mondavi or the Zinfandel.
I look at many blogs – most are American – they talk of making hit wines, of boutique vineyards, limited edition bottlings and so on – names that get the writer (and their readers) excited and lustful. The same names mean nothing to me. The wine just do not make it across to the UK.
We are blessed with a multitude of specialist wine merchants in the UK – many are holding their own against the supermarkets and the high street chains. Only a couple though offer a decent range from California. And don’t even begin to look for Arizona or Long Island, although a smattering of wines from Oregon and Washington have found their way to these little islands. But those specialists are offering the wines at eye-wateringly high prices. You have to ask why would anyone bother – the range of wines readily available from across Europe, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa often provide much better value for money [in the U.K.].
"[The CA wines available in the U.K. lack] texture and perhaps a little complexity that similarly priced wines from say the South of France or Italy, so readily available here, provide in spades."
With my evening meal I switched to the Mondavi Woodbridge Chardonnay 2006. This retails at about £7.50 [roughly $12 USD]; the average price of a bottle of wine is half this. The wine is lightly oaked, again highly drinkable but lacks texture and perhaps a little complexity that similarly priced wines from say the South of France or Italy, so readily available here, provide in spades.
And that about sums it up really – you CAN get various Californian wines in the UK but they come at a price that doesn’t often stack up well against similar wines from elsewhere. And those Gallo wines, at the cheap end of the scale, must be enjoyed by someone. You can’t really be saying they are brought solely on price can you?
A Turn on High Voltage Wine: Volta Wine's Inaugural Offering
You know what kicks ass?
The movie IRON MAN. That film devastates when I watch it on the 50" Sony HDTV in my basement.
You know what else stomps all kinds of gluteus maximus?
1WineDude.com readers! Especially when those readers make wine. Like Steve Lau of Volta Wine, which is releasing its inaugural Cabernet Sauvignon vintage (2005) this Fall. Steve contacted me as a fan of the blog and someone who grew up in my current stomping ground of Pennsylvania, wondering if I'd like to try their single-vinyeard, Howell Mountain Cab.
Howell Mountain? Would I like to try it? Hello! Does the Pope wear a hat?!?? Despite the fact that this kind of thing consistently gets me in trouble in the wine blog-o-world, I advised Steve to send me a bottle with all speed.
I tried Volta's Cab. this past weekend. And it's very, very good. The blackberry and plum coming off this wine is outrageously pure on the nose and on the palate, and the mouthfeel is smooth as silk. 
That Howell Mountain fruit is somehow lush but at the same time the tannins have a laser focus. The only thing I didn't like about this wine was the high Voltage - at 15% abv, the wine's booze power is no joke. But I was digging it, and it's one of the few 14.5%+ abv wines that I've really been able to get behind lately without feeling like someone is trying to beat me up.
Still, I hesitated to write about the wine here, because at 291 cases produced, most 1WD readers are unlikely to be getting their hands on the stuff. BUT... with plans to branch out with other single-vineyard releases of Southern Rhone varietals from Sonoma and Riesling from Yakima, Volta might just be a producer to watch for high quality (but potentially high voltage) vino. Plus, they source grapes that are farmed organically so they're adding to the growing list of wines that are proving wrong my theory that organic wines bite donkey bong...
I asked Steve for some insight on how the Volta got its start and what the winery is all about. According to Steve:
"I grew up in Pennsylvania. I was involved in the music industry for many years, first as an artist on Warner Brothers and then running a label called Kinetic records for Warner's. I took some time off about four years ago at which point I met my partner who was, at the time, leaving the mortgage business. (Timely exits from two tanking industries I guess).
Long story short, after a fascination with wine for most of my adult life and a discussion with a friend who was importing wine in Amsterdam, we decided to explore the wine industry and went to the wine program at Culinary Institute in the Napa Valley. From there we just kind of dove in head first talking to as many people as we could about starting a new project, finding a facility, a winemaker and sourcing premium organic fruit.
It's been an incredible journey, one that the more we learn, the more we realize how much we have to learn. Our winery is in Sonoma at a facility which is owned by a guy that is the former winemaker at Etude, Scott Rich. (He makes an awesome Pinot called Talisman.) Our winemaker is a a really cool guy named Massimo Montecelli. He's a fourth generation winemaker and his entire family in in the business. He was the winemaker at Silver Oak, his brother is the winemaker for Trinchero family's premium line and his dad was the first winemaker for E.J. Gallo back in the early seventies and is still running their wine making today. Phil Cotouri, our vineyard manager, is the leading organic vineyard manager in the Sonoma and Napa Valleys. We feel privileged to be working with such generous and talented people."
So there you have it. Good peeps, and very good unfiltered and unfined single-vineyard wine. Plus, I managed to combine Volta Wine, IRON MAN, and AC/DC in the same post. Better quit while I'm ahead...
Cheers!
(images: blog.al.com, bigpond-images.com, 1WineDude.com,)
An Open Letter to (Busty) California Winemakers
To Whom It May Concern:
I've just polished off another 1/2 of a bottle of your tasty, 14.5% abv wines... in fact, I'm pretty sure that even though it said 14.5% on the elegant bottle, it was probably closer to 15.2%. Anyway, I hope you'll forgive me if I stray off topic or get a little emotional. I'm sure you'll understand...
I'm a wine lover. And I love California wines - in fact, they're the first wines that made me stand up and say "WOW! I think I'm in love with wine!" If it wasn't for CA wines, I would never have started my own personal and fulfilling journey into the wondrous world of wine.
So let's just establish right now that I've got a soft spot in my heart for CA wine. I even love a good fruit bomb every now and then, which I'd argue is one of the fingerprints of CA wine that makes it so unique on the world stage, and capable of being so damn good.
We've had a good run, you and me... BUT... things just aren't what they used to be...
Your wines... they're just starting to... well, I'll be honest, they're starting to seem a little boorish sometimes. And I have to admit, I've been finding myself attracted to other wine regions. Southern France, New Zealand, Chile...
I didn't expect this to happen. I thought we were happy together. But then things started to change. I understand that you need to 'chase scores sometimes in order to command high bottle prices for your wines. After all, how else can you afford to keep up with those expensive winemaking techniques... I know how difficult it is to upkeep pricey machinery, to hand-sort grapes, and let's not talk about the extravagant prices of new oak barrels these days!
I appreciate what you're up against, too; those Old World wine regions have hundreds of years going for them, and they can take a long range view of their wines. You have it tougher - sometimes, if you don't create a big, busty fruit bomb, you can't get your name out there quickly enough to be successful - and your competition sure isn't waiting around.
But it's all gone overboard now. I mean, do you have to obsess about Robert Parker's ratings all the time??!? I like the guy, but there are other palate preferences out there. Good ones, too.
I love that you're busty with all of that alcohol and ripe fruit. It turns me on. But you used to be busty and elegant. Now... well... I'll let the pictures speak for themselves...
I'm not sure things can ever go back to being how they were.
But I'm willing to try if you are.
So please... for both of us... think twice before you go for that much alcohol. I'm not sure that any unfortified wine has enough fruit, acidity, and tenderness to balance against > 15% abv. Think about that, for you, for me. For us, and what we used to have together...
Love,
-Dude
(images: flikr.com - eduardolive, unknown)
